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Vacheron Constantin responded with the Mercator, launched in 1994 to commemorate the 400th anniversary... 

Vacheron Constantin Mercator

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Rolex

Folding Clasp

The Oyster Perpetual collection is Rolex's most affordable line, renowned for its waterproof “Oyster” case and “Perpetual” automatic movement, guaranteeing exceptional precision and reliability. Introduced in 1926, the first waterproof “Oyster” case gained notoriety in 1927 when English swimmer Mercedes Gleitze crossed the English Channel wearing a Rolex equipped with this revolutionary case. In 1931, Rolex launched its first “Perpetual” automatic movement.

Since then, the Oyster Perpetual collection has continued to evolve, becoming one of Rolex's most popular and iconic ranges.

The model we are presenting here has a diameter of 36 mm, a green dial, and a three-link Oyster bracelet. It is equipped with the caliber 3230, offering chronometric precision of -2/+2 seconds per day and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

The watch comes complete with its box, outer box, warranty card, manuals, and tag.

Green

Hours

Minutes

Seconds

Discover this Rolex Oyster Perpetual 126000 Green available at our showroom in Geneva.

Oyster Perpetual

Automatic

Outer box

Original papers

Manual

Stainless steel

Steel

The first Rolex with a second time zone was launched in 1954 under the reference Rolex GMT-Master 6542. This watch was developed in collaboration with the American airline Pan Am to meet the needs of pilots who crossed several time zones in a single trip.

Unveiled in 1981, the reference 16750 had a short production run of eight years, making it much rarer than the reference 1675, which was produced for 20 years. The distinctive feature of this reference is the quick date adjustment, an important function made possible by the introduction of the new caliber 3075. 

The term “transitional” used for this model comes from the significant variations in the dial that occurred throughout its production: matte to glossy dials.
The early versions, as seen here, have the same matte dial as the later 1675s, a black dial with tritium-painted hour markers and the text “Oyster Perpetual” under “Rolex.” 
Around 1984/85 and for a short period, a glossy dark black dial appeared with applied white gold hour markers and the text “Oyster Perpetual” under “Rolex.” 
Shortly thereafter, the same glossy dial featured the word “Date” in the text “Oyster Perpetual Date” under “Rolex,” as on modern versions of the GMT collection.

Matte dials were often replaced with glossy dials during servicing, making them all the more rare. 

Date

Découvrez notre Rolex GMT-Master 16750 disponible à notre showroom à Genève.

GMT Master

In 2003, to mark the 50th anniversary of the Submariner, Rolex introduced the reference 16610LV, nicknamed “Kermit.” For the first time in the model's history, the bezel was available in green, the brand's iconic color. This anniversary version retained the classic Submariner Date case, while adding a strong and immediately recognizable visual identity.

The first generation, produced at the very beginning of the series, is now known to collectors as the “Flat Four.” This name refers to the specific typography of the number 4 on the bezel insert, whose upper bar is flat, unlike later versions. This subtle detail, combined with a “Maxi” dial with large hour markers and hands, gives these early models a particularly sought-after status.

All variations of the Kermit are listed in our article available [here](https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/buyers-guides/the-rolex-submariner-kermit-exploring-the-16610lv-and-its-variations).

Equipped with the caliber 3135, first introduced in the late 1980s, this movement, which has a 48-hour power reserve, is widely considered one of the best and most reliable mechanical movements for everyday use.

The watch comes with its box, outer box, certificate of origin, manuals, and card holder.

Black

Discover this Rolex Submariner 16610LV Kermit Flat Four available at our showroom in Geneva.

Submariner

Certificate of origin

The Rolex Cosmograph was launched in 1963 for racing drivers, and the “Daytona” signature appeared a year later when Rolex became a sponsor of the 24 Hours of Daytona race in Daytona Beach, Florida. 

As for the model presented here, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16520 was launched in **1988**, completely redesigned from its predecessor with a larger 40 mm case and a sapphire crystal that increased its water resistance to **100** meters. At that time, it became Rolex's first automatic chronograph with the caliber 4030. It is interesting to note that the automatic movement does not come from Rolex but is based on Zenith's famous El Primero caliber, originally designed in 1969 after a race between several manufacturers to design the very first automatic chronograph movement. Rolex modified the movement to, among other things, increase the power reserve and lower the frequency.

This particular example belongs to the “**A series**” from **1999** and features a **Luminova** dial, which is consistent with the late production of this reference. 

To top it all off, this watch comes in NOS (New Old Stock) condition with a **complete** set including its box, outer box, original Rolex warranty, warranty manual, manual, card holder, and tags.

Small second

Chronograph

Discover this superb Rolex Daytona Zenith 16520 NOS full set from 2000 with a white luminova dial, available at our showroom in Geneva.

Daytona

Pin buckle

Launched in 1956, the Day-Date was the first watch to display both the day and date through an opening in the dial. Rolex has never shied away from being associated with influential figures, including a number of presidents, which is how this model earned its nickname.

With a diameter of 36mm, the reference 1803 was produced from the early 1960s to 1977. It is the first generation of Day-Date watches to have been in production for over 15 years. The main feature of this model is its domed “pie-pan” dial and domed plexiglass crystal. This brown dial, nicknamed “Ghost Cappuccino” or “Ghost Caramel,” is particularly rare because the inscriptions on it disappear depending on the angle of the light.

The Rolex caliber 1555 has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours and is not equipped with the quick date setting system on the crown, a feature that appeared with the following reference 18038 and caliber 3055.

Brown

Discover this Rolex Day-Date 1803/8 with a brown ghost dial, available at our showroom in Geneva.

Day Date

Leather

Yellow Gold

Cartier

The Tank Louis ref. 96065, introduced in the 1980s, replaced the previous ref. 78086 and was a direct descendant of the Tank known as the “Louis Cartier.” 
The white enamel color dial of the previous generation was replaced by a guilloché decoration. All the other characteristic features were retained: elongated Roman numerals, a minute track, blued hands and the classic crown adorned with a blue cabochon. The rectangular case, made of yellow gold, has balanced and highly refined proportions, measuring 23 × 30 mm, in the grand tradition of Cartier's ultra-thin city watches.

This ‘ultra-thin’ model is equipped with the Cartier 96 caliber, a derivative of the Frédéric Piguet Cal. 21 caliber, which allows for a case thickness of only 4.2 mm. It is also one of the ‘Pre-CPCP’ models produced before the launch of the ‘Cartier Paris Collection Privée’ in 1998. This collection revisits Cartier's archives, bringing back into fashion historic models that had been overlooked for years, from the Tortue to the Tank Basculante.
Models prior to the CPCP do not bear the word “Paris” under the Cartier signature at 12 o'clock and feature the signature “Swiss Made” at 6 o'clock instead of “Swiss.”

While the Cartier Tank Collection Privée models are more famous, this 96065 is a lesser-known model that laid the foundations for this collection, while remaining faithful to the spirit of the historic Tank watches. 

Cream

Rare Cartier Tank Louis Extra-Thin 96065 Pre-CPCP in yellow gold available in our showroom in Geneva.

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Vacheron Constantin Mercator

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Vacheron Constantin Mercator

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Wrist Impression - MB&F LM101

History - F.P. Journe Chronometre a Resonance

"First wrist impression" articles