Audemars Piguet

Folding Clasp

Launched in 1972, the first Royal Oak ref. 5402 was designed by one of the most prolific watch designer, Gerald Genta. Inspired from a scaphander diving helmet and drawed in one night, this model has no precedent at this period : a 39mm steel case which gave the nickname “Jumbo” to this model and its impressive pricing of 3,750 CHF, more than ten times the price of a Rolex Submariner.

Alongside production of the iconic Royal Oak, a reduced-sized version of this watch was launched around 1976/1977, ref. 4100. A few generation apart, reference 14790 was produced from 1992 to 2006. 

This example manufactured in 2001 displays a "Mark 2" dial, consistent with the period, recognizable by the "Small Tapisserie" dial and the typography of "Audemars Piguet". 

The major aspect of the model is undoubtedly its **salmon dial**.
The salmon color appeared in 1992 with the Royal Oak Jumbo model reference 14802, marking the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak. It also appeared in Royal Oak Mid-Size version reference 14800 introduced in 1994.
At the time, a few privileged clients were able to separately order, from Audemars Piguet or official retailers, a salmon dial separately to fit their 14790ST while keeping the original dark dial with which the watch was originally sold.

The watch comes as a full set with its box, outer-box, Audemars Piguet certificate of origin and the original dark blue dial.

Salmon

Hours

Minutes

Seconds

Date

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 14790ST salmon dial available in our showroom in Geneva.

Royal Oak

Automatic

Outer box

Certificate of origin

Stainless steel

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Steel

Piaget

Clasp

Piaget's catalogue of the past is a true masterpiece of style. The models are not only eye-catching, they also feature textures that can be truly breathtaking when experienced in person. 

Piaget has been famous for its quest for the extra-flat since the 1950s, with the 9P movement unveiled in Geneva in **1957**, which was acclaimed for its thinness at just 2mm thick and its elegance, as well as for its performance and reliability.

The model reference is designated **H24** specifying the type of finishing on the case and bracelet.

This model, dating from 1969, features a superb dial paved with **165** brilliant-cut diamonds. The "Clou de Paris" decorative motif on the case and bracelet consists of small pyramid-shaped reliefs.

Moreover, given the complexity of the craftsmanship involved in creating these bracelets, reproducing these pieces today would entail substantial costs for manufacturers.

This watch comes with a 2024 Piaget Service Invoice (2-year warranty) and a Piaget travel case.

Diamond

Discover this rare Piaget from 1969 available at our showroom in Geneva.

Heritage

Manual

Service invoice

White gold

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White Gold

Rolex

The Rolex Submariner is an icon. Certainly the most famous diver's watch.

Originally designed in 1953 for work and deep-sea diving, the Submariner's reliability and timeless proportions make it, for the most part, the tool watch par excellence that has become, over the years, the benchmark among all diving watches.

This model, reference 1680, is the first in the Submariner collection to be equipped with a date function. 

This particular example has a very rare original Mk 3 tropical dial, recognisable by the typography specific to these versions. The original black dial has taken on a superb, homogenous brown colour over the years, making this watch a one-off. A true collectible watch.

Equipped with calibre 1570, this movement has a 48-hour power reserve and is perfectly reliable for everyday use.

The watch is delivered "watch only".

Brown

Discover this Rolex Submariner 1680 Mk 3 "tropical" dial available at our showroom in Geneva.

Submariner

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The first Rolex model equipped with a quartz movement was the reference 5100, introduced in 1970 and produced in limited quantities until 1972. This model was equipped with the Beta-21 calibre, designed by the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH), a consortium of around 20 Swiss watch manufacturers, including Rolex, to create the first Swiss quartz movement. 

As Rolex wanted to develop their own movement in-house, the first Oysterquartz models did not appear until 1977 with the Datejust (calibre 5035) and Day-Date (calibre 5055). The model we have here, the Oysterquartz Day-Date, reference 19018N, has a 36mm case in yellow gold with an integrated bracelet with flat links and a fluted bezel. Unlike the 19018 version, this model has no chamfers on the lugs and a vertical brushed polish on the upper part.

The calibre 5055 has a 32 khz oscillator (4 times more than the Beta-21) to compensate for the effects of temperature and guarantee an accuracy of less than one minute per year, far superior to that of all Rolex mechanical movements at the time. In addition, this calibre has a hacking-second function and dual date and day setting, which did not appear on automatic calibres until 1988.

The watch comes with a Rolex travel pouch, its Rolex certificate of origin (date of sale 1987), a 2009 Rolex service guarantee card and manuals.

Champagne

Discover this superb Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date 19018N with original papers available at our showroom in Geneva.

Day Date

Quartz

Warranty service card

Travel pouch

Yellow gold

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Yellow Gold

Pin buckle

Launched in 1956, the Day-Date was the first watch to simultaneously display the day and date through an opening in the dial. Rolex has never shied away from its association with influential personalities, including a number of presidents, which earned this model its nickname.

With a diameter of 36mm, reference 18039 was produced between 1977 and 1989. A wide variety of dial configurations were offered at the time, including some in hard stone or even [wood](https://www.41watch.com/en/day-date/1077-rolex-daydate-or-jaune-cadran-bois) (as our colleagues at 41Watch recently had), but all were now flat, unlike the domed dials present on the older reference 1803. 

The most useful improvement for this reference was the addition of a quick date-setting function via the crown, and the addition of a sapphire crystal to guarantee greater resistance and water-resistance. This technical advance was made possible by the new caliber 3055, replacing the 1555 used in the previous generation.

Our model features a rare blue dial with minute track around the circumference. The leather strap adds an elegant touch that makes this model a perfect choice for those who like sober, discreet watches. The original white gold buckle is the finishing touch that enhances the ensemble.

As soon as this model was released, Rolex offered a choice of 25 different languages for the day display, English obviously being the most commonly used worldwide.

This watch is delivered as watch only.

Blue

Discover our Rolex Day-Date 18239 Or Blanc Cadran Bleu Original 1977 available at our showroom in Geneva.

Leather

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The Rolex Datejust ref. 1601 is one of our most iconic vintage watches. A well-proportioned 36 mm steel case, the fluted 14k white gold bezel and the famous Jubilee bracelet.

The Datejust was the first self-winding watch to show the date in a window on the dial that jumps instantly at midnight to ensure that the date is "right" at all times. With its timeless design, perfect time legibility, date window and self-winding movement, this model has remained one of the most popular Rolex watches since its launch in 1945.

This 1971 model features a superb blue "Pie-pan" dial that is particularly rare; the majority of production was done with silver dials.

Under the dial we find the caliber 1570, with stop seconds for precise adjustment, which has a power reserve of approximately 48 hours.

The watch is delivered as watch only.

Discover this Rolex Datejust 1601 with a rare blue dial available at our showroom in Geneva.

Datejust

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The first Rolex with a second time zone was launched in 1954 under the reference Rolex GMT-Master 6542. This watch was developed in collaboration with the American airline Pan Am to meet the needs of pilots who crossed several time zones in a single trip.

Introduced in 1980, ref. 16758 is the gold version of ref. 16750, marking the end of the long reign of ref. 1675 and the addition of a quick-set date function and sapphire crystal. Initially brown, the dial has evolved into an orange color we've named “Volcano”; probably due to moisture that has penetrated the case, creating a superb, unique effect contrasting with the brown bezel and gold case.

The caliber 3075, used exclusively in the Rolex GMT-Master 1675x series, has been improved on its cal. 1575 predecessor. The balance wheel speed has been increased from 19,800 to 28,800 vph, and is equipped with a quick-set date function. Its power reserve is 48 hours.

A subtle difference between the cal. 3075 and its cal. 1575 predecessor is the order of the hands on the dial. The GMT hand used to be positioned below the hour hand, but is now above it.

The steel version being considered a “toolwatch” par excellence, this luxury version with 18-carat yellow gold case and Jubilee bracelet represents the quintessential luxury watch of the 1980s.

Discover our Rolex GMT-Master 16758 “Volcano” available at our showroom in Geneva.

GMT Master

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Launched in 1956, the Day-Date was the first watch to simultaneously display the day and date through an opening in the dial. Rolex has never shied away from its association with influential personalities, including a number of presidents, which has earned this model its nickname.

With a diameter of 36mm, reference 1803 was produced from the early 1960s to 1977. It was the first generation of Day-Date to be produced for more than 15 years. The main feature of this model is its domed “Pie-pan” dial and domed Plexiglas crystal. This dial features special indexes at 6 and 9 o'clock in the shape of a doorstop, hence its nickname “Doorstop”.

The Rolex caliber 1555 has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours and is not equipped with the crown-operated quick-date system, a feature appearing with the following reference 18038 and caliber 3055.

As soon as this model was released, Rolex offered a choice of 25 different languages for the day display, English obviously being the most commonly used worldwide.

This watch is delivered watch only, with a white gold Rolex buckle.

Discover this Rolex Day-Date 1803/9 Doorstop Dial available at our showroom in Geneva.

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Piaget's catalog of the past is a true masterpiece of style. The models are not only eye-catching, they also feature textures that can be truly breathtaking when experienced in person. 

Piaget has made a name for itself in particular thanks to its quest for the extra-flat since the 1950s, with the 9P movement unveiled in Geneva in 1957, which was acclaimed for its thinness at just 2mm thick and its elegance, as well as for its performance and reliability.

Weighing 170g in white gold, this 34mm model features an **onyx** dial creating a superb contrast with the white gold case. The bezel is also set with **36** brilliant-cut diamonds.
Beneath the dial, the mechanical self-winding caliber 12P is equipped with a micro-rotor for added finesse, and has a power reserve of around 40 hours.

Reference 12336 identifies the model and C20 specifies the type of finish on the case and bracelet. The same as a similar model [we recently had](https://geneva.41watch.com/catalogue/piaget/heritage/1777-piaget-heritage-brutalist). 

What's more, given the complexity of the craftsmanship involved in creating these bracelets, reproducing these pieces today would entail substantial costs for manufacturers.

This watch comes with a 2024 Piaget service invoice (2-year warranty) and a Piaget travel case.

Black

Discover this rare 1975 Piaget model with onyx dial available at our showroom in Geneva.

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The Rolex Explorer reference 1655 was launched in 1971 and remained in production until 1985. It was the first Explorer II model, with an orange 24-hour hand.

It was designed to meet the needs of cave explorers, speleologists and people working in environments where the 24-hour hand was useful for distinguishing day from night.

During the course of its production, this model was fitted with various types of dial, which were classified according to different 'Mark' grades. Our model is fitted with a **Mark V** dial, distinguished by a wider, higher Rolex crown and the words “**T SWISS < 25 T**” on the lower edge of the dial in a large, without serif font. 

Commonly known as “**Freccione**” (“arrow” in Italian), it received its nickname from Italian collectors over the years. This is a very unusual and unique Rolex in style, with alternating luminescent markers, a bright orange 24-hour hand and white hands.

The watch comes with a box, the original Rolex warranty and an expertise certificate from 41Watch Geneva.

Discover this superb Rolex Explorer 1655 “Freccione” available at our showroom in Geneva.

Explorer II

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With a diameter of 36mm, reference 18239 was produced between 1989 and 2000. A wide variety of dial configurations were offered at the time, including some in semi-precious stone or wood, but all were now flat, unlike the domed dials present on the earlier reference 1803. 

Our model features a silver dial with no luminescent material (“no lume”, which seems to indicate that this watch was intended for the Japanese market) and “SWISS MADE” lettering at 6 o'clock, as opposed to the “T SWISS MADE T” reserved for dials equipped with tritium luminescent material. To match the dial perfectly, the hands also feature no luminescent material.

The most useful improvement for this reference was the addition of a double function for quick date and day setting by means of the crown. This technical advance was made possible by the new caliber 3155, replacing the 3055 used in the previous generation.

As soon as this model was released, Rolex offered a choice of 25 different languages for the day display, English being the most commonly used throughout Europe.

This watch is delivered watch only.

Silver

Discover our Rolex Day-Date 18239 White Gold Diamond Dial available at our showroom in Geneva.

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Vacheron Constantin

During the period spanning the mid-1980s to the early 2000s, the watch industry ehas to face many challenges with the quartz crisis which pushed them to reimagine themselves and move beyond their traditional history. 

Vacheron Constantin responded with the Mercator, launched in 1994 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Gerardus Mercator’s death. The unusual time-telling display was conceived to resemble a compass, and used a dual-retrograde handset. The design pays homage to the cartographer who created the Mercator projection, which became the standard 'world map' we now recognise.

The dial of the Mercator is made of engraved map lines, this one representing the **Americas**, each lines meticulously filled with glossy black enamel. A subtle yet meaningful detail can be found at the 4 o’clock position on the dial’s edge—a delicate lettering reading "J&L Genbrugge." This tribute honors the Belgian couple responsible for designing and crafting these watches.

With a 36mm yellow gold case, the Mercator features a stepped bezel complemented by robust, matching stepped lugs. The monochromatic palette of the case and dial allow the artistic map design to command full attention.

All Mercator examples utilized the same movement – the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 1120, originally based on a Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 ébauche – which was modified to incorporate a bi-retrograde mechanism for the hours and minutes.

This watch comes with its box, outer-box, original certificate of authenticity and manuals.

Discover our Vacheron Constantin Mercator 43050 Americas Box Papers available at our showroom in Geneva.

Mercator

Certificate of authenticity

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The Daytona model is one of the most iconic Rolex model. Introduced in 1988, this reference is important being the first equipped with an automatic caliber based on the famous Zenith El Primero one. Its diameter of 40mm and its watertightness increased to 100m was a revolution at that time.

Chronograph

Rolex Daytona Zenith 16520 available in our showroom in Geneva.

Daytona

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Patek Philippe

The Nautilus is certainly the most well-known model from Patek Philippe. Designed by Gérald Genta who has, among otherss, designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Nautilus was introduced in 1976, being the first luxury steel wristwatch of the manufacturer. 

Available in four different sizes, this one the "Boy" size (2nd size) and features rare diamonds blue dial and bezel. The perfect Nautilus for a collector woman.

Nautilus

Extract of the archives

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Launched in 1956, the Day-Date was the first watch to display the day and date in an aperture on the dial at the same time. It was also on this occasion that the so-called “President” bracelet was created.
The reference 18038 was produced between 1977 and 1989, is equipped with a sapphire crystal and the caliber 3055 with quick-set date function.

Rolex Day-Date 18038 available in our showroom in Geneva.

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Launched in 1955, the Rolex GMT-Master introduces a second hour hand (the “GMT” hand) to indicate a second time zone by adjusting its rotatable 24-hour bezel. 

The reference 16700 appears in 1988 equipped with a sapphire crystal which replace the older plexiglass crystal on the 16750. It was the last of the GMT-Master collection which was discontinued in 1999 to make room for the GMT-Master 2 ref. 16710 produced until 2005.

The watch comes with its box, 1994 Rolex original warranty, 2004 service warranty card and a manual.




Rolex GMT-Master 16700 Full set 1994 available in our showroom in Geneva.

International warranty card

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Vintage Watches

Vintage Watches